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Preparing for Parenthood: The Essentials
First things first: are your dragons ready? Health and maturity are paramount. Both the male and female should be fully grown adults, typically at least 18 months old, though waiting until they are closer to two years is often recommended, especially for females. They must be in peak physical condition – well-nourished, free of parasites or any signs of illness like Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), and at a healthy weight. Breeding underweight or unhealthy dragons is irresponsible and can lead to serious complications for the female and weak or non-viable eggs. Consider their genetics. While you don’t need to be a master geneticist, understanding the background of your dragons, especially if they carry specific morph traits, is helpful. Breeding related animals should always be avoided to prevent genetic defects. Knowing the lineage helps ensure healthier hatchlings. Preparation often involves a period of brumation, the reptile equivalent of hibernation. Simulating a natural cooling period several months before breeding season (typically spring) can help synchronize their reproductive cycles. This involves gradually reducing temperatures and light duration for several weeks, maintaining the cool period, and then slowly warming them back up. Following brumation, ensure both dragons receive optimal nutrition, with females needing extra calcium supplementation to prepare their bodies for egg production.The Introduction and Mating Ritual
Once your dragons are healthy, mature, and properly conditioned, you can consider introductions. This should always be done in a neutral territory or the male’s enclosure, under strict supervision. Never leave them unattended initially. Male bearded dragons initiate courtship with distinct behaviors. Expect vigorous head bobbing, often turning his beard black and puffing it out. Females might respond with slower head bobs or arm waving, which can indicate submission or acknowledgement. The male will often circle the female, sometimes nipping gently at her neck or back to encourage receptiveness. If the female is receptive, she will typically flatten her body slightly and lift her tail. The male will then position himself, gripping the female’s neck crest area with his mouth (this looks alarming but is normal mating behavior) and aligning their cloacas for copulation. The actual act is usually brief. It’s crucial to watch closely. While the neck biting is normal, excessive aggression from either dragon means they should be separated immediately. After a successful mating, or if either dragon shows signs of stress or aggression, separate them back into their own enclosures. One successful mating is often enough to fertilize a clutch of eggs, although some breeders allow a couple of brief, supervised encounters over a few days.Caring for the Gravid Female
Following successful mating, the female becomes gravid (pregnant). You’ll notice her abdomen swelling over the next few weeks, typically 4 to 6 weeks after mating. Her appetite might increase significantly initially, but it often decreases as the eggs take up more space closer to laying time. Providing top-notch nutrition is vital during this period. Dust her feeder insects generously with calcium powder (without D3 if your UVB lighting is adequate, with D3 a few times a week otherwise) and provide a high-quality vitamin supplement according to a recommended schedule. Ensure she has access to fresh water and proper basking temperatures to aid digestion and development. A crucial step is providing a suitable egg-laying box, often called a lay box. This should be introduced into her enclosure about two weeks after mating or as soon as you suspect she is gravid. A large plastic container (like a storage tub) with an entrance hole cut in the side works well. Fill it at least 6-8 inches deep with a substrate that holds moisture well, such as a mix of slightly damp sand and coco fiber, or plain organic topsoil. The substrate needs to be moist enough to hold its shape if squeezed but not soaking wet. This allows her to dig a tunnel where she feels secure laying her eggs.Crucial Information for Gravid Females: Failing to provide a suitable lay box is extremely dangerous. A female unable to find an appropriate place may retain her eggs, leading to a life-threatening condition called dystocia or egg-binding. Ensure the lay box is deep enough, the substrate is appropriately moist, and it’s placed in a quiet area of her enclosure. Monitor her closely for signs she is ready to lay, such as restless digging behaviour.
Egg Laying and Handling
When ready, the female will spend considerable time digging in the lay box, eventually creating a tunnel or chamber. She will then deposit her eggs, typically ranging from 15 to 30 eggs, though clutches can sometimes be larger or smaller. After laying, she will carefully cover the eggs with substrate. This entire process can take several hours. It’s important not to disturb her during laying unless absolutely necessary. Once she has finished laying and has left the lay box, you can carefully excavate the eggs. Be extremely gentle. Reptile eggs, unlike bird eggs, do not have a hard shell; they are leathery. More importantly, the embryo attaches to the membrane inside the shell shortly after laying. It is critical not to turn or rotate the eggs from the position they were laid in. Doing so can detach the embryo and kill it. Many breeders use a soft marker (like a felt-tip pen) to gently place a small dot on the top of each egg as they find it, ensuring they maintain this orientation when moving them to the incubator.Incubation: Creating the Perfect Environment
Successful incubation requires precise control over temperature and humidity. You’ll need an incubator. While commercial reptile incubators offer reliable temperature control, many keepers successfully use DIY incubators made from styrofoam boxes or coolers equipped with heat tape/cables regulated by a thermostat.Incubation Medium
The eggs shouldn’t sit directly on the incubator floor or heating element. They need an incubation medium held within a container (like a deli cup or small plastic tub with holes for air exchange). Common mediums include:- Vermiculite
- Perlite
- HatchRite (a commercial perlite-based medium)
