Giving your canine companion a comfortable place to eat is something many pet owners think about. You might have seen those raised dog bowls in stores or online, often called elevated feeders. While they look neat, the price tag can sometimes be a bit steep, or maybe they just don’t quite match your home’s style. That’s where the fun of doing it yourself comes in! Crafting a DIY elevated dog feeder is not only a potentially cost-effective alternative but also a rewarding project that lets you create something perfectly suited for your furry friend and your living space.
Why bother elevating the bowls at all? For some dogs, particularly larger breeds or older dogs who might have a bit of stiffness, bending down low to eat or drink can seem uncomfortable. Raising the bowls can potentially offer a more natural posture during meal times. Think about it – less stooping might mean a more relaxed dining experience. Plus, from a purely practical standpoint, elevated feeders can help keep the feeding station tidier. Water splashes and kibble spills are often more contained, making cleanup a little easier. And let’s be honest, sometimes getting those bowls off the floor just looks better.
Why Go the DIY Route?
Choosing to build rather than buy opens up a world of possibilities. Firstly, customization is key. You get to choose the exact height, the perfect size for your specific bowls, the type of wood or material, and the final finish. Does your dog need an extra-tall feeder? Do you have unusually shaped bowls? Do you want it to match your kitchen cabinets? DIY makes all of this achievable.
Secondly, it can be a fantastic way to save some money, especially if you already have some basic tools and scrap wood lying around. Even if you need to buy materials, you can often build a sturdy, attractive feeder for less than the cost of a comparable retail version. Thirdly, it’s a satisfying project! There’s a unique pride in seeing your dog happily munching away from something you built with your own hands. It’s a chance to get creative, maybe learn a new skill, and spend an afternoon making something practical and useful.
Getting Started: Ideas and Inspiration
Before you start sawing and screwing, think about the design. There are countless ways to build an elevated feeder:
- The Classic Wooden Box: This is probably the most common DIY approach. It involves building a simple, sturdy box with holes cut in the top to hold the bowls. It’s straightforward, stable, and easily customizable with paint or stain.
- Pipe Dream Feeder: For a more industrial or modern look, consider using metal pipes (like copper or galvanized steel) and fittings to create a frame that holds a wooden top or directly supports the bowls. This requires different tools but results in a unique aesthetic.
- Repurposed Charm: Get creative with items you might already have! An old wooden crate, a small step stool, or even sturdy, overturned terracotta pots (with a custom top) can be transformed into functional feeders. This is great for upcycling and adding character.
- Minimalist Stand: If you prefer a less bulky look, you could build a simple stand with just legs and a top board, omitting the enclosed box sides.
Building a Basic Wooden Box Feeder: Step-by-Step
Let’s focus on the popular wooden box design. It’s a great starting point for beginners.
Step 1: Measure Your Mutt (and Bowls)
This is the most crucial step for comfort. How tall should the feeder be? A general guideline is to measure your dog’s height at the withers (the top of their front shoulders) and subtract about 6 inches (or 15 cm). However, watch your dog eat. The goal is a natural neck position, not ramrod straight or craning downwards. The top of the feeder (where the bowl rim sits) should ideally be around the level of the lower part of your dog’s chest. Also, measure the diameter of your dog’s bowls just under the top lip – this is the size of the hole you’ll need to cut. Measure the depth of the bowls too, to ensure the box is deep enough.
Measure Carefully for Comfort. Getting the height right is important for your dog’s posture while eating. Measure from the floor to your dog’s wither (top of the shoulder blades) and subtract approximately 6 inches as a starting point. Observe your dog eating from a temporary raised surface (like books) to fine-tune the height before building. Ensure the final height allows for a comfortable, neutral neck position.
Step 2: Gather Your Goods
You’ll need:
- Wood: Pine boards are inexpensive and easy to work with. Choose boards that are thick enough to be sturdy (e.g., 1×6 or 1×8 inch planks). You’ll need enough for the top, four sides, and possibly feet or internal supports depending on your design. Plywood (3/4 inch) is another option for the top.
- Bowls: Stainless steel bowls are durable and easy to clean. Make sure you have the bowls *before* you cut the holes!
- Fasteners: Wood screws are generally best. Choose a length appropriate for the thickness of your wood (e.g., 1 1/4 inch screws for 1-inch thick boards). Wood glue adds significant strength.
- Tools: Tape measure, pencil, saw (hand saw, circular saw, or miter saw), jigsaw (for cutting the bowl holes), drill (for pilot holes and driving screws), sandpaper (medium and fine grit), clamps (helpful but not essential).
- Safety Gear: Safety glasses and gloves are a must.
- Finishing Supplies: Pet-safe paint, stain, or sealant.
Step 3: Cut Your Pieces
Based on your desired feeder height, width, and length (determined by bowl size and spacing), carefully measure and cut your wood. You’ll typically need:
- One top piece.
- Two identical side pieces (length of the feeder).
- Two identical end pieces (width of the feeder, minus the thickness of the two side pieces if they overlap).
Double-check your measurements before cutting! Precision here makes assembly much easier.
Step 4: Assemble the Box
Apply wood glue to the edges where the pieces will join. Start by attaching the side pieces to the end pieces to form a rectangular frame. Drill pilot holes before inserting screws to prevent the wood from splitting, especially near the ends. Ensure the frame is square. Once the frame is built, attach the top piece, again using glue and screws with pilot holes.
Step 5: Cut the Bowl Holes
Place your bowls upside down on the top piece where you want them. Trace around the rim. Now, measure the lip of the bowl – you want the hole to be slightly smaller than the overall rim diameter so the bowl sits securely without falling through. Draw this smaller circle inside your traced line. Drill a starter hole inside the smaller circle, large enough to fit your jigsaw blade. Carefully cut out the circle using the jigsaw, following your inner line. Repeat for the second bowl if you’re making a double feeder.
Step 6: Sand and Finish
This step is crucial for both appearance and safety. Sand all surfaces and edges thoroughly, starting with medium-grit sandpaper and finishing with fine-grit for a smooth touch. Pay extra attention to the edges of the bowl holes. Wipe away all sawdust. Now, apply your chosen finish. It is absolutely vital to use a finish that is non-toxic and pet-safe once cured. Look for water-based paints or sealants labelled as food-safe or toy-safe. Read the product labels carefully regarding cure times – the finish needs to be completely hardened and inert before your dog uses the feeder. Allow plenty of drying time between coats if needed.
Prioritize Pet Safety with Finishes. Always choose paints, stains, or sealants specifically labelled as non-toxic, pet-safe, food-grade, or safe for children’s toys when finishing your DIY feeder. Dogs may lick or chew surfaces, making chemical safety paramount. Allow the finish to cure completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions, which often takes longer than just being dry to the touch, before letting your pet use the feeder.
Fine-Tuning and Flair
Once the basic structure is complete, consider adding some personal touches.
Adding Stability and Style
You could add small wooden blocks as feet to lift the feeder slightly off the ground, which can prevent moisture from getting trapped underneath. Beveling the edges with sandpaper or a router can give it a softer, more finished look. For larger feeders, adding internal support braces under the top piece can increase strength.
Personalization
This is where your creativity shines! Paint the feeder a bright color, stain it to match your furniture, or even add decorative elements like wood-burned designs or your dog’s name using stencils. You could line the inside with a waterproof material for easier cleaning, although a good sealant should offer decent protection.
Considering Non-Slip Options
If the feeder tends to slide around on your floor, consider adding small rubber feet or non-slip pads to the bottom corners. This will keep it securely in place while your enthusiastic eater enjoys their meal.
Building a DIY elevated dog feeder is more than just constructing a piece of pet furniture; it’s an act of care tailored specifically for your companion. It allows you to control the materials, ensure the perfect height, and create a piece that fits seamlessly into your home. Whether you build a simple wooden box or tackle a more complex pipe design, the effort results in a functional, personalized item that both you and your dog can appreciate for years to come. So grab your tools, choose your wood, and get ready to build something special!
