So, you’ve been enjoying the cheerful chirps and busy antics of your pet finches and the thought has crossed your mind: maybe you could try breeding them? It’s a fascinating and rewarding extension of the finch-keeping hobby, allowing you to witness the entire life cycle up close. While not overly complicated, especially with certain species, successful finch breeding does require preparation, patience, and providing the right conditions. This guide will walk you through the essentials to get started.
Choosing Your Potential Parents
Not all finches are created equal when it comes to ease of breeding for beginners. While the stunning Gouldian finch might catch your eye, they can be notoriously tricky. For your first foray into breeding, it’s wise to start with species known for their willingness to reproduce in captivity.
Recommended Beginner Species
Zebra Finches: These are arguably the easiest and most popular choice. They are prolific, hardy, and readily accept standard nesting provisions. Their eagerness to breed means you’ll likely see results relatively quickly, which is encouraging for a novice.
Society Finches (Bengalese Finches): Another excellent choice. Societies are known for their gentle nature and fantastic parenting skills. In fact, they are often used as foster parents for other, more challenging finch species. They are less boisterous than Zebras but just as reliable.
Ensuring You Have a Pair
This might sound obvious, but you need one male and one female! Sexing finches varies by species. Zebra finches are relatively easy: males typically have bright orange cheek patches, flank spots, and throat barring, along with a bright red beak. Females lack these markings and have an orange beak. Society finches are notoriously difficult to sex visually; males sing a distinct, albeit quiet, warbling song, while females typically only chirp. You might need to observe them carefully or acquire birds already confirmed as a pair.
Acquiring Healthy Birds: Start with strong, healthy stock. Look for birds that are active, alert, with bright eyes and smooth feathers. Avoid birds that look fluffed up, lethargic, or have any discharge from the eyes or nares. Purchasing from a reputable breeder who knows the birds’ history is often better than buying from a pet store where conditions and lineage might be unknown.
Verified Fact: Zebra finches (Taeniopygia guttata) originate from Australia and are known for their rapid breeding cycle. Society finches, however, do not exist in the wild. They are a domesticated species developed in Asia centuries ago, likely from crosses involving the White-Rumped Munia.
Setting Up the Breeding Quarters
While some finches might attempt to breed in a community aviary, success rates are much higher when a dedicated pair is given their own space. This prevents interference from other birds and reduces stress.
The Breeding Cage
A standard breeding cage is ideal. These are typically rectangular, wider than they are tall, often measuring around 24-30 inches long. Wire spacing should be appropriate for small finches (no more than half an inch apart) to prevent escapes or injury. Avoid round cages or overly tall, narrow ones, as finches prefer horizontal flying space. The cage should have multiple perches of varying diameters to exercise their feet and at least two access doors – one main door and often a smaller one near potential nest sites.
Location, Location, Location
Place the breeding cage in a quiet, stable environment. Avoid areas with heavy foot traffic, loud noises, or sudden disturbances (like near televisions or doors that slam). Consistent temperature and lighting are crucial. Avoid drafty spots or direct, intense sunlight. A location with bright, indirect natural light is excellent. If natural light is limited, full-spectrum avian lighting on a timer (mimicking natural day length, around 12-14 hours) can be very beneficial for conditioning birds to breed.
Nests and Nesting Material
Provide more than one nest option initially, placed high up in the cage, preferably in opposite corners. Good choices include:
- Wicker baskets (ensure they are sturdy and tightly woven)
- Half-open wooden nest boxes
- Plastic nest cups often sold for canaries
Offer a generous supply of appropriate nesting material. Safe and popular options include:
- Coconut fiber
- Jute fibers
- Dried grasses (ensure they are pesticide-free)
- Short strands of burlap (check for loose threads)
Place the material inside the cage, perhaps in a small hopper or simply on the cage floor. The birds will select what they prefer and begin constructing their nest.
Important Warning: Never provide cotton balls, yarn, or long strands of string as nesting material. These materials can easily wrap around a bird’s leg or neck, causing serious injury or strangulation. Always use short-fibered, natural materials.
Nutrition for Breeding Success
A standard seed mix alone is insufficient for birds expected to undergo the rigors of breeding and raising young. Conditioning your pair with an enriched diet for several weeks *before* introducing the nest is vital.
The Base Diet
A high-quality finch seed mix should still form the foundation of their diet.
Essential Supplements
Egg Food: This is non-negotiable for breeding finches. It provides the extra protein and nutrients needed for egg production and feeding chicks. You can buy commercial egg food (dry or moist) or make your own (hard-boiled egg mashed with breadcrumbs or crushed cereal, perhaps with added vitamins). Offer a small amount daily during conditioning and throughout chick-rearing.
Greens and Vegetables: Offer finely chopped dark leafy greens like kale, romaine lettuce (sparingly), broccoli florets, and grated carrot. Introduce these gradually if your birds aren’t used to them.
Sprouted Seeds: Sprouting seeds unlocks nutrients and mimics the natural abundance birds experience in the wild breeding season. Offer small amounts of sprouted finch seed, mung beans, or lentils.
Calcium: Essential for eggshell formation and bone health. Provide a cuttlebone at all times. Crushed oyster shell or a specific grit mix containing calcium can also be offered in a separate dish.
Fresh Water: Always ensure clean, fresh water is available daily, potentially in multiple drinkers.
The Breeding Cycle: From Nest to Hatching
Once your pair is well-conditioned and comfortable in their breeding cage with nesting options, nature often takes its course.
Conditioning and Courtship
The enhanced diet and appropriate lighting schedule help bring the birds into breeding condition. You’ll notice increased activity and potentially courtship behaviors. Male Zebras perform a distinctive song and dance, often holding a piece of nesting material. Male Societies inflate their chests and sing their quiet song. Both sexes will typically investigate the nest sites.
Nest Building
One or both birds will start carrying nesting material to their chosen site, weaving it into a cozy structure. Zebra finches tend to build dome-shaped nests, while Societies often prefer a cup or box. Don’t interfere with their construction efforts.
Egg Laying
Once the nest is satisfactory, the female will begin laying eggs, typically one per day, usually in the morning. Clutch size varies but is often between 3 to 6 eggs for Zebras and Societies. Some females start incubating immediately, while others wait until the clutch is nearly complete.
Incubation
Incubation is the period of keeping the eggs warm so the embryos can develop. Both male and female Zebra finches usually share incubation duties. With Society finches, both parents also typically incubate. The incubation period for most common finches is approximately 12 to 16 days, counting from when serious incubation begins (usually after the 3rd or 4th egg is laid).
Candling Eggs (Optional): After about 5-7 days of steady incubation, you can carefully candle the eggs to check for fertility. This involves briefly shining a small, bright light (like a candling torch or small LED flashlight) through the egg in a darkened room. Fertile eggs will show a network of blood vessels or a dark spot (the developing embryo). Clear eggs are infertile. Remove infertile eggs carefully to allow the parents to focus on viable ones, but only if you are confident.
Hatching
Chicks will begin to hatch around 12-16 days after incubation starts. They are tiny, naked, and completely dependent on their parents. You might hear faint peeping sounds from the nest. Avoid disturbing the nest excessively during hatching.
Raising the Chicks
The parents’ instincts usually take over once the chicks hatch, but your role in providing excellent nutrition and a stable environment remains crucial.
Parental Care
Both parents will typically feed the chicks regurgitated food, primarily the soft egg food you provide. This is why continuing to offer fresh egg food daily, along with their regular diet, is absolutely essential. The parents will brood the chicks (keep them warm) almost constantly for the first week or so.
Monitoring Development
You can peek into the nest briefly once a day to monitor the chicks, but avoid excessive handling or disturbance. You should see them growing, developing fine down, and eventually pin feathers. Ensure the parents are actively feeding them (chicks should have full-looking crops – a pouch at the neck area).
Verified Information: Finch chicks grow rapidly. They typically open their eyes around one week of age. Feathering progresses quickly, and they are usually fully feathered though smaller than adults by the time they fledge.
Fledging
Fledging is when the chicks leave the nest for the first time. This usually occurs around 3 weeks (21 days) of age. Fledglings are often clumsy flyers initially and may spend time on the cage floor. Ensure food and water are easily accessible at lower levels if necessary. The parents will continue to feed the fledglings for several more weeks.
Weaning
Weaning is the process where the young birds learn to eat independently. This typically happens between 4 to 6 weeks of age. Observe the young birds carefully to ensure they are cracking seeds and eating the soft food on their own before considering them fully weaned.
Potential Issues and Responsible Breeding
While often straightforward, breeding can sometimes present challenges.
- Infertile Eggs: Can be due to young or old birds, poor health, incompatibility, or nutritional deficiencies.
- Egg Binding: A serious condition where the female cannot pass an egg. This is an emergency requiring prompt veterinary attention. Ensuring adequate calcium intake helps prevent this.
- Abandoned Nests/Chicks: Can happen due to stress, disturbance, inexperienced parents, or if the parents feel threatened.
- Over-breeding: Allowing pairs to raise clutch after clutch without rest is detrimental to their health. Limit pairs to 2-3 clutches per year, removing the nests and nesting material for several months to allow them to recuperate fully.
Moving On the Youngsters
Once the young finches are fully weaned and eating independently (usually around 6 weeks old), it’s generally best to move them to a separate cage or aviary. This prevents overcrowding in the breeding cage and stops the parents from potentially starting another nest too soon or becoming aggressive towards their offspring as they mature.
Breeding finches is an engaging experience that deepens your appreciation for these little birds. By providing the right setup, excellent nutrition, and a calm environment, you significantly increase your chances of success. Remember that patience and careful observation are key. Enjoy the journey of watching new life unfold in your aviary!
