Leopard geckos have charmed reptile enthusiasts for decades with their docile nature, manageable size, and captivating variety of colors and patterns. Breeding these fascinating creatures can be an incredibly rewarding experience, allowing you to witness their life cycle firsthand and potentially produce stunning morphs. However, it’s a commitment that requires careful planning, dedicated care, and a solid understanding of their needs and genetics.
Preparing for Breeding
Before you even think about introducing a male and female, several crucial factors need consideration. Responsible breeding starts long before the geckos meet.
Health, Age, and Weight
Health is paramount. Only breed leopard geckos that are in peak physical condition. Both the male and female should be robust, active, free from parasites (internal and external), and show no signs of metabolic bone disease (MBD), neurological issues, or other health problems. A pre-breeding check-up with a reptile veterinarian is advisable.
Age and weight are critical, especially for the female. Females should be at least one year old, preferably closer to 18 months, and weigh a minimum of 45-50 grams. Breeding underdeveloped or underweight females can severely jeopardize their health, leading to egg-binding and other complications. Males can typically breed slightly younger and lighter, around 8-10 months and 40-45 grams, but maturity ensures better fertility and less stress.
Understanding Basic Genetics
While you don’t need a Ph.D. in genetics, understanding the basics is essential if you’re interested in producing specific morphs. Leopard gecko traits are passed down through genes:
- Dominant: Only one parent needs to carry the gene for the trait to be visually expressed in the offspring.
- Recessive: Both parents must carry the gene for the trait to be visually expressed. Offspring carrying only one copy are ‘heterozygous’ (het) for the trait but look normal.
- Co-dominant / Incomplete Dominant: These genes express differently depending on whether the gecko has one copy (heterozygous form) or two copies (super form). Mack Snows are a common example.
Research the specific morphs you intend to work with to understand their inheritance patterns. Pairing geckos without knowing their genetics can lead to unexpected, and sometimes undesirable, results.
Setting the Scene
You generally have two options for introductions: introducing the male into the female’s enclosure or setting up a dedicated neutral breeding tank. Introducing the male to the female’s territory is often preferred, as females can be territorial. Monitor introductions closely. Ensure the enclosure is clean and provides adequate space and hiding spots.
The Breeding Process
Once your geckos meet the prerequisites, you can proceed with the breeding stages.
Brumation (Optional Cooling)
Many breeders induce a cooling period, known as brumation, before breeding. This mimics the natural seasonal changes leopard geckos experience in the wild and can help synchronize reproductive cycles and improve fertility. Brumation typically involves gradually lowering the ambient temperature over a couple of weeks to around 65-70°F (18-21°C) for 4-8 weeks. During this time, feeding is stopped (ensure the gecko’s gut is empty before cooling begins), but fresh water must always be available. After the cooling period, temperatures are gradually raised back to normal, and feeding resumes. Not all breeders brumate their geckos, and successful breeding can occur without it, but it’s a common practice.
Important: Never attempt brumation with underweight or unhealthy geckos. Always ensure their digestive tracts are clear before significantly lowering temperatures. Provide fresh water throughout the cooling period, even though they may not drink often.
Introduction and Mating
After the geckos are back to normal temperatures and feeding schedules (if brumation was performed), you can introduce the male to the female’s enclosure. Observe their interactions carefully. The male will typically show interest by rapidly vibrating or waving the tip of his tail. He may gently nip the female, often around the neck or tail base, to encourage receptivity. If the female is receptive, she will usually lift her tail, allowing copulation. Mating itself is usually brief. It’s wise to supervise introductions to intervene if excessive aggression occurs, although some chasing and nipping are normal courtship behaviours.
Once mating is observed (or after a few days of cohabitation), it’s generally best to separate the male back into his own enclosure. This prevents potential stress or injury to the female, especially as she becomes gravid (pregnant with eggs).
Egg Laying and Incubation
Following successful mating, the female will develop eggs over several weeks.
The Gravid Female and Lay Box
You’ll notice the female’s abdomen swelling as the eggs develop; sometimes, you can even see the shape of the eggs through her skin. She will require increased calcium supplementation during this period. Provide a dedicated lay box within her enclosure. This is typically a plastic container with a lid (and an entrance hole cut in the side or top) filled with a moist substrate like sphagnum moss, peat moss, or coco fiber. The moisture is crucial for preventing the eggs from drying out and encourages the female to lay in a predictable spot.
Females usually lay clutches of two eggs at a time, though single-egg clutches are possible, especially for first-time breeders. They can retain sperm and may lay multiple clutches (typically 2-6 clutches, sometimes more) from a single mating session, usually spaced 2-4 weeks apart.
Incubation
Check the lay box daily. Once eggs are laid, carefully remove them without rotating them. Leopard gecko eggs have an air cell that develops early, and rotation can detach the embryo, proving fatal. Place the eggs in an incubator container filled with a suitable incubation medium (slightly damp perlite, vermiculite, or specialized products like HatchRite or SuperHatch). Make small indentations in the medium for the eggs to sit securely.
Leopard geckos exhibit Temperature-Dependent Sex Determination (TSD). The incubation temperature directly influences the sex of the hatchlings:
- Lower Temps (approx. 80-84°F / 26.7-28.9°C): Predominantly females.
- Mid-Range Temps (approx. 85-87°F / 29.4-30.6°C): Mix of males and females.
- Higher Temps (approx. 88-90°F / 31.1-32.2°C): Predominantly males.
Temperatures outside this range can be detrimental. Incubation typically lasts 35-65 days, heavily dependent on the temperature (higher temps lead to shorter incubation times).
Verified Fact: Maintaining stable incubation temperatures is key for TSD and healthy development. Use a reliable thermostat and thermometer inside your incubator. Fluctuating temperatures can stress the embryos or lead to unexpected sex ratios.
Hatchling Care
Seeing the tiny geckos pip and emerge from their eggs is a thrilling moment. Hatchlings require specific care different from adults.
Setup and First Shed
Prepare small, simple enclosures for the hatchlings (e.g., plastic shoeboxes with ventilation). Use paper towels as substrate for the first few weeks; it’s easy to clean and prevents accidental ingestion of loose substrate. Provide small hides and a shallow water dish. Maintain appropriate temperatures, similar to adults but ensuring a good gradient. Hatchlings usually shed their skin within the first few days of hatching. They typically won’t eat until after this first shed.
Feeding
Once they’ve shed, offer small, appropriately sized insects like pinhead crickets, small dubia roach nymphs, or mini mealworms daily. Dust the insects lightly with calcium (with D3) and a multivitamin supplement on a regular schedule, similar to adults but adjusted for their rapid growth.
It’s best to house hatchlings individually to prevent competition for food and potential bullying or tail-nipping.
A World of Morphs
One of the biggest draws to leopard gecko breeding is the incredible diversity of morphs – genetic variations affecting color, pattern, and sometimes even eye pigmentation or size.
What is a Morph?
A morph isn’t a different species or subspecies; it’s simply a visual variation from the ‘Normal’ or ‘Wild Type’ appearance caused by genetic mutations. Decades of selective breeding have isolated and combined these mutations to create a stunning array.
Common Morph Categories
While the list is ever-expanding, here are some foundational morph types:
- Albinism: Lack melanin (black pigment). There are three main incompatible strains: Tremper, Bell, and Rainwater (Las Vegas). Geckos must be from the same albino line to produce albino offspring.
- Patternless/Leucistic: Lack spotting as adults. Blizzards are a well-known type, often appearing grayish or yellowish. Murphy Patternless is another distinct line.
- Hypomelanistic (Hypo): Reduced black spotting (typically 10 or fewer spots on the body for Hypo, zero spots for Super Hypo).
- Tangerine: Selectively bred for increased orange coloration. Often combined with Hypo (e.g., Super Hypo Tangerine). Carrot Tail refers to orange coloration on the tail base.
- Snow: Various lines (Mack Snow, Gem Snow, TUG Snow) exhibit reduced yellow pigment, appearing whiter, especially as hatchlings. Mack Snows have a co-dominant ‘Super’ form.
- Eclipse: Affects the eyes, causing solid black, ruby, or ‘snake’ eyes (partially colored). Often associated with other morphs like Tremper Albino or Mack Snow.
- Giant/Super Giant: Affects overall size, resulting in significantly larger geckos. A co-dominant trait.
Breeders constantly combine these basic traits to create complex ‘designer’ morphs like Black Nights, Dreamsicles (Enigma + RAPTOR), various Snow combinations, and many more. Researching specific morph genetics is crucial before pairing animals if you aim to produce particular outcomes.
Responsible Morph Breeding
While morphs are exciting, be aware of potential issues. Some genes, like Enigma, are linked to neurological problems (‘Enigma Syndrome’). Responsible breeders avoid pairings known to cause health issues or genetic defects.
The Responsibilities of Breeding
Breeding leopard geckos isn’t just about hatching cute babies; it carries significant responsibilities. Ensure you have the space, resources (enclosures, heating, food, supplements), and time to care for potentially dozens of hatchlings. Most importantly, have a plan for finding knowledgeable, caring homes for all the offspring you produce. The pet market can be saturated, so responsible placement is vital. Avoid overbreeding females; limit clutches per season to prevent exhaustion and health decline. Breeding should enhance your appreciation for these animals, not become a burden on them or you.
Embarking on leopard gecko breeding can deepen your connection to these remarkable reptiles. By prioritizing health, understanding genetics, and committing to responsible practices, you can enjoy the journey of nurturing new life and potentially contributing to the beautiful diversity of leopard gecko morphs available to hobbyists.
