So, you’re thinking about bringing a leopard gecko into your home? That’s fantastic news! These little reptiles, hailing from the arid grasslands and rocky deserts of Pakistan, Afghanistan, India, and Iran, make truly wonderful companions. They’re generally docile, relatively easy to care for compared to some other reptiles, and come in a dazzling array of colours and patterns thanks to dedicated breeding efforts. This guide will walk you through the essentials to ensure your spotted friend thrives.
Setting Up the Perfect Gecko Abode
First things first, your gecko needs a safe and comfortable place to live. While they start small, they grow, so planning ahead is wise. A 10-gallon tank might seem okay for a baby, but they quickly outgrow it. An adult leopard gecko requires a tank that’s at least 20 gallons long. Longer is generally better than taller, as these geckos are terrestrial, meaning they spend most of their time on the ground. A secure mesh lid is essential to prevent escapes and allow for proper ventilation.
Substrate Choices: What Goes on the Floor?
This is a topic with lots of opinions! For beginners and young geckos, paper towels or slate tile are often recommended. They are safe, easy to clean, and eliminate the risk of impaction (where the gecko accidentally swallows substrate that blocks its digestive system). Some experienced keepers use specific loose substrates like a mix of organic topsoil and play sand, but this requires careful monitoring. Never use calcium sand or pure sand, as these pose a significant impaction risk and aren’t natural for them. Walnut shells are also a definite no-no.
Substrate choice is critical for your gecko’s health. Loose substrates like sand or calcium sand can lead to life-threatening impaction if ingested. Always prioritize safety, especially for young geckos. Paper towels or tile are the safest starting points.
Hides and Decor: Creating Security and Enrichment
Leopard geckos are nocturnal/crepuscular (active at dawn and dusk) and need places to hide and feel secure during the day. You absolutely need a minimum of three hides:
- A hide on the warm side of the tank.
- A hide on the cool side of the tank.
- A humid hide.
The humid hide is crucial for shedding. You can buy specific humid hides or make one from a plastic container with a hole cut in the side, filled with damp moss (like sphagnum or peat moss), coconut fiber, or paper towels. Keep the material inside moist, but not soaking wet. Beyond hides, provide some low branches, cork bark, or rocks for climbing and exploration. Ensure anything you add is stable and won’t fall on your gecko.
Temperature and Lighting Needs
Being reptiles, leopard geckos are ectothermic, meaning they rely on external sources to regulate their body temperature. Providing a proper temperature gradient is non-negotiable. This means one side of the tank should be warmer than the other.
Heating Essentials
You need to create a warm spot (basking surface temperature) of around 88-92°F (31-33°C). The best way to achieve this reliably is with an Under Tank Heater (UTH) placed underneath one end of the tank (covering about 1/3 of the floor space). Alternatively, overhead heating like a Deep Heat Projector (DHP) or Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE) can be used, especially in larger enclosures or cooler rooms. These emit heat but little to no light, making them suitable for 24/7 use if needed to maintain ambient temps.
Crucially, any heat source MUST be connected to a thermostat. This device regulates the temperature, preventing the heater from getting too hot and burning your gecko or causing a fire hazard. Do not skip this step; it’s vital for safety.
The cool side of the tank should remain cooler, typically around 75-80°F (24-27°C). Nighttime temperatures can drop slightly but ideally shouldn’t go below 65°F (18°C) consistently. Monitor temperatures regularly using digital thermometers with probes placed at substrate level on both the warm and cool sides.
Lighting: Day, Night, and UVB
Leopard geckos need a regular day/night cycle. Providing ambient room light during the day and darkness at night is usually sufficient. No special coloured “night bulbs” are needed; complete darkness is best for their nocturnal behaviour. While leopard geckos are traditionally thought not to require UVB lighting like diurnal lizards, there’s growing evidence that low levels of UVB can be beneficial for their overall health, aiding in D3 synthesis and calcium absorption. If you choose to provide UVB, use a low-output bulb designed for shade-dwelling reptiles (like a T5 HO 5% or 7% UVB bulb) and ensure there are plenty of shaded areas and hides where the gecko can retreat from the light. A 12-hour on/12-hour off cycle is typical.
Humidity Requirements
Originating from arid regions, leopard geckos don’t need high overall humidity in their enclosure. Aim for ambient humidity levels around 30-40%. Too much humidity constantly can lead to respiratory issues. However, as mentioned earlier, a dedicated humid hide is essential. This microclimate helps immensely when your gecko sheds its skin. Check the humid hide daily or every other day to ensure the moss or paper towel inside remains damp.
Proper shedding is vital for a gecko’s health. Stuck shed, especially around toes or the tail tip, can cause constriction and problems. Maintaining a proper humid hide is the best way to prevent shedding issues. Check your gecko after each shed to ensure all the old skin came off.
Feeding Your Leopard Gecko
Leopard geckos are insectivores. Their diet should consist primarily of live insects. Good staple feeders include:
- Crickets
- Dubia Roaches
- Mealworms (best for adults as staples, can be harder for babies to digest)
- Silkworms
- Black Soldier Fly Larvae (also known as Phoenix Worms or Calci-worms)
Insects like waxworms and superworms are high in fat and should only be offered occasionally as treats. Hornworms (low fat, high moisture) can also be a good supplemental feeder.
Gut-Loading and Supplementation
The nutritional value of feeder insects depends heavily on what they’ve eaten. Gut-loading means feeding the insects a nutritious diet (commercial gut-load formulas, vegetables like carrots, leafy greens, oats) for at least 12-24 hours before offering them to your gecko. What’s inside the insect becomes nutrition for your gecko.
Supplementation is also critical to prevent metabolic bone disease (MBD). You’ll need three main supplements:
- Calcium with Vitamin D3: Essential for calcium absorption.
- Plain Calcium (without D3): For use at feedings where D3 isn’t needed.
- Multivitamin: Provides other essential vitamins and minerals.
A common schedule involves lightly dusting insects with calcium with D3 a couple of times a week, plain calcium a few other times a week, and a multivitamin once every week or two. The exact schedule can vary based on the gecko’s age and whether you provide UVB lighting (which helps them produce their own D3). It’s often recommended to leave a very small, shallow dish of plain calcium powder in the tank at all times for the gecko to lick from as needed, but ensure it stays clean and dry.
Feeding Frequency and Water
Baby and juvenile geckos grow quickly and need to eat more often, typically daily. Offer as many appropriately sized insects (no wider than the space between their eyes) as they will eat in about 10-15 minutes. As they mature into adults (around 10-12 months old), their metabolism slows down, and feeding can be reduced to every other day or even just 2-3 times per week. Always provide a shallow dish of fresh, clean water. Ensure the dish is shallow enough that the gecko can easily get out and poses no drowning risk.
Observe your gecko’s body condition to gauge feeding amounts. A healthy leopard gecko should have a plump tail where fat reserves are stored. An overweight gecko will have fat deposits around its limbs (“armpits”). Adjust feeding accordingly.
Handling and Temperament
Leopard geckos are known for being quite calm, but they need time to adjust to a new environment. Give your new gecko at least a week or two to settle in before attempting handling, limiting interactions to feeding and cleaning. Start handling sessions short (5-10 minutes) and sweet. Approach your gecko slowly from the side, not from above (which can trigger a predator response). Gently scoop it up rather than grabbing it. Let it walk from hand to hand. Never grab or restrain its tail!
Leopard geckos can drop their tails (autotomy) if they feel threatened or are grabbed by the tail. While the tail will regrow, it takes a lot of energy, and the regrown tail often looks different (usually bulbous and less patterned). It’s a defense mechanism that should be avoided through gentle handling.
Keeping Your Gecko Healthy
A healthy leopard gecko is active (during its usual active hours), alert, has clear eyes, a plump tail, and sheds its skin completely in one piece (though sometimes it happens in patches). Regular spot cleaning of waste and ensuring clean water and appropriate temperatures go a long way in preventing problems. Difficulty shedding (dysecdysis) is often linked to inadequate humidity, particularly the lack of a proper humid hide. Refusal to eat can sometimes happen, especially during shedding or if temperatures are incorrect, but prolonged anorexia warrants attention.
Watching your gecko’s behaviour daily is the best way to notice if something seems off. Understanding their normal habits helps you spot potential issues early. Remember that proper husbandry – the right environment, diet, and minimal stress – is the foundation of a healthy leopard gecko.
Bringing a leopard gecko into your life is a rewarding experience. These charming lizards have a lifespan that can easily reach 15-20 years or more with proper care, so it’s a significant commitment. By providing them with the correct housing, heating, diet, and gentle interaction, you’ll have a fascinating and engaging companion for many years to come. Enjoy the journey with your new spotted friend!
