So, you’re thinking about bringing some tiny paws into your life? Mice can be wonderfully engaging and surprisingly personable little companions. They don’t demand walks in the rain or vast amounts of space, but that doesn’t mean their care is entirely hands-off. Getting the basics right from the start makes all the difference for a happy mouse and a happy owner. Forget the cartoon stereotypes; these intelligent little rodents have specific needs that are quite easy to meet once you know what they are.
Finding the Right Home: Cage Considerations
First things first, your new mouse needs a secure and suitable place to live. Not just any container will do. The two most popular options are wire cages with solid bottoms and glass or plastic tanks (aquariums or terrariums). Wire cages offer excellent ventilation, which is crucial for preventing respiratory issues, a common ailment in mice. However, ensure the bar spacing is narrow enough (usually 1/4 inch or less) to prevent escapes, especially for younger mice. Critically, the floor must be solid plastic, not wire mesh. Wire floors can cause painful foot injuries like bumblefoot.
Tanks provide great visibility and are escape-proof from the sides, plus they allow for deep bedding which mice absolutely love for burrowing. The main drawback is ventilation. You’ll need a secure wire mesh lid to ensure good air circulation and prevent escapes from the top. Tanks can also get heavy and a bit trickier to clean thoroughly.
Size matters! While mice are small, they are active and need room to explore, run, and play. For a pair or small group of female mice (males are often best housed alone to prevent fighting), aim for a cage that’s at least equivalent to a 10-gallon tank in floor space, but bigger is always better. Height is also appreciated, as mice enjoy climbing.
Where you place the cage is important too. Choose a location away from direct sunlight, drafts, and loud noises. A stable room temperature is ideal. Avoid placing the cage directly on the floor where vibrations or other pets might stress them out. A quiet corner of a living room or bedroom often works well.
Setting Up a Cozy Habitat
Once you have the cage, you need to furnish it. Bedding, often called substrate, is essential. It absorbs waste and provides burrowing material. Avoid cedar and untreated pine shavings at all costs. These woods contain phenols, aromatic oils that can cause serious respiratory problems in small animals. Aspen shavings, paper-based bedding (like Carefresh or Kaytee Clean & Cozy), or hemp bedding are much safer choices. Pile it deep – at least 2-3 inches, ideally more – so your mice can indulge their natural tunnelling instincts.
Every mouse needs a safe place to retreat and sleep. Provide one or more small hide houses. These can be store-bought plastic igloos, ceramic houses, or even simple cardboard boxes or tubes (which will need frequent replacement as they get chewed or soiled). Having multiple hides is great, especially if housing more than one mouse, as it prevents squabbles over the best spot.
You’ll need a food dish. A heavy ceramic dish is often best as it’s difficult for mice to tip over. Alternatively, some cages allow for attachable bowls. For water, a sipper bottle with a metal spout is the standard. Check the spout daily by tapping the ball bearing to ensure water flows freely and the bottle isn’t leaking. Some mice also enjoy a small, heavy water bowl, but be prepared for it to get filled with bedding frequently.
Wire mesh floors and wheels are dangerous for mice. Their tiny feet and legs can easily get trapped, leading to painful injuries like broken bones or bumblefoot (a nasty foot infection). Always choose cages with solid flooring and exercise wheels with a solid running surface.
What’s on the Menu? Mouse Nutrition Basics
A proper diet is fundamental to your mouse’s health. The best foundation is a high-quality commercial mouse food, usually in the form of lab blocks or uniform pellets. These are specifically formulated to provide balanced nutrition and prevent selective feeding (where a mouse picks out only the tasty, often less healthy, bits from a mix). Look for blocks with around 16% protein and 4-5% fat.
While blocks should make up the bulk of the diet, you can offer small amounts of healthy treats for variety and enrichment. Good options include:
- Small amounts of seeds (sunflower, pumpkin – high in fat, so feed sparingly)
- Grains (oats, barley)
- Cooked pasta or rice (unsalted)
- Small pieces of fresh vegetables (broccoli, peas, carrots, cucumber)
- Tiny bits of fruit (apple, pear, berry – avoid citrus)
- Occasional protein boost like a tiny piece of cooked chicken or scrambled egg (unseasoned)
Avoid feeding your mouse sugary human snacks, chocolate (toxic!), citrus fruits, onions, garlic, raw beans, and heavily processed foods. Fresh water must always be available. Check the water bottle daily and refill with fresh water.
Feed your mouse daily, providing enough lab blocks for them to eat freely, though monitor to prevent obesity. Scatter feeding some of their food around the cage encourages natural foraging behaviour. Remove any uneaten fresh food within a few hours to prevent spoilage.
Handling and Making Friends
Mice can become quite tame and enjoy human interaction, but it takes patience. Start by simply sitting near the cage and talking gently to them so they get used to your presence and voice. Offer treats through the bars or by placing your hand flat inside the cage. Let the mouse approach you; don’t force interaction.
When your mouse seems comfortable, you can try gently scooping it up with cupped hands. Support its whole body. Never, ever pick up a mouse by its tail! This can easily injure their spine or cause the skin on the tail to detach (degloving), which is incredibly painful and serious. If a mouse is skittish, you can gently guide it into a small cup or tube to lift it out of the cage initially.
Keep initial handling sessions short and positive. Always handle your mouse over a soft surface or close to the ground in case it jumps. With regular, gentle handling, most mice will learn to trust you and may even climb willingly onto your hand.
Remember that mice are social animals, especially females (does). Keeping two or three females together is usually ideal for their well-being. Male mice (bucks), however, often become territorial and aggressive towards each other once mature and are generally best housed alone unless they are littermates raised together continuously (and even then, fights can break out).
Keeping Busy: Enrichment is Key
Bored mice can become stressed or develop behavioural problems. Enrichment is vital for their mental and physical health. They need opportunities to run, climb, chew, and explore.
An exercise wheel is almost essential, but choose wisely. It must have a solid running surface (no mesh or bars) and be large enough that the mouse can run without arching its back excessively (usually 6.5 inches or larger for fancy mice). Upright wheels are generally preferred over saucer-style wheels for promoting a more natural running posture, although saucers can be a fun addition.
Provide plenty of things to chew on. Mouse teeth grow continuously, and chewing helps keep them worn down. Safe chew toys include:
- Cardboard tubes (toilet paper rolls, paper towel rolls)
- Untreated wood blocks or chews (apple wood is often popular)
- Cardboard boxes (remove any tape or staples)
- Certain hard-shelled nuts (like walnuts, in moderation)
- Woven grass mats or balls
Mice love to climb! Add branches (safe woods like apple or willow, baked first to sterilize), ropes (sisal or cotton), plastic or wooden ladders, and multi-level platforms to their cage. You can create mini playgrounds for them. Rotate toys and rearrange the cage layout occasionally during cleaning to keep things interesting.
Cleanliness is Next to Mousiness
Maintaining a clean cage is crucial for preventing smells and keeping your mouse healthy. Spot clean daily by removing any soiled bedding or leftover fresh food. How often you need a full clean depends on cage size and the number of mice, but generally, a weekly or bi-weekly deep clean is necessary.
For a full clean, temporarily move your mice to a secure holding container (like a small carrier or a deep plastic bin with air holes and some familiar bedding). Discard all the old bedding. Wash the cage base, hides, wheel, food dish, and water bottle thoroughly with hot water and a mild soap or a pet-safe cleaner. A solution of equal parts white vinegar and water is also effective and safe. Rinse everything extremely well to remove any residue and dry completely before adding fresh bedding and putting everything back. Ensure the water bottle is refilled with fresh water.
Watching for Wellness
Get to know your mouse’s normal appearance and behaviour. A healthy mouse is typically bright-eyed, alert, active (especially during evenings and nights), has a smooth, clean coat, and breathes quietly. Daily observation helps you spot potential problems early.
Be watchful for signs of illness, such as:
- Wheezing, clicking, or laboured breathing (signs of respiratory infection)
- Lethargy, hiding more than usual
- Ruffled or unkempt fur
- Weight loss or decreased appetite
- Diarrhea or constipation
- Runny eyes or nose
- Lumps or bumps on the body
- Overgrown teeth (difficulty eating, drooling)
- Excessive scratching or hair loss
If you notice any concerning signs, it’s important to consult a veterinarian experienced with small animals or “exotics.” While this guide covers basics, it’s not a substitute for professional veterinary advice when illness is suspected.
Caring for mice is a rewarding experience. By providing a safe environment, proper nutrition, opportunities for enrichment, and gentle handling, you can build a wonderful bond with these tiny, fascinating creatures. They may be small, but their capacity for fun and companionship is surprisingly large!
